Fashion and Sustainability: A Business Ecosystem Perspective in the Denim Sector

Purpose
This paper explores whether and how sustainability can be effectively integrated into the denim industry through a business ecosystem perspective. It aims to identify the key players, map the specific obstacles to implementing sustainable practices, and examine structural tensions that hinder the shift from individual company efforts to ecosystem-wide sustainability. The paper develops two novel theoretical constructs, orchestration reach and orchestration coherence, that extend ecosystem theory to multi-tier, multi-orchestrator sustainability governance and explain why brand-led orchestration, although necessary, is insufficient for systemic sustainability outcomes.
Methodology
The study employs a qualitative multiple-case approach involving seven manufacturing firms and four luxury brands. Data was gathered through semi-structured interviews and analysis of strategic documents. The analysis combined deductive and inductive coding, followed by cross-case comparison.
Findings
Results reveal environmental and social sustainability efforts, such as chemical substitution, certified cotton sourcing, ozone and laser tech, and support for raising wages. However, systemic sustainability faces challenges from structural tensions: chemical–water trade-offs, misaligned sustainability investments, fragmented governance, knowledge gaps, and a “relocation paradox,” where rising costs push sourcing to lower-standard regions. Sustainability efforts are uneven across the ecosystem, with manufacturers bearing costs and brands gaining reputational benefits.
Originality
This study advances sustainable business ecosystem theory, introducing the concepts of orchestration, reach, and coherence, highlighting the limitations of brand-led governance in complex supply chains.
Practical implications
Managers should align procurement practices with sustainability goals, measure performance, harmonize standards, and improve upstream traceability. Policymakers should strengthen due diligence, expand reporting frameworks, and reduce competitive distortions.